York Factory to Fort VancouverAugust 1826
 
 
August 1826 Tuesday 1st.  Commenced heavy showers at 2 AM.  Embarked & pursued our journey along the shore of Lake Winnipeg in a SSW direction at 4:30.  We got a fine breeze from the NW with clear weather, to which we made sail & having come about 20 miles from our encampment we entered the Saskatchawan River at 7:30 AM.  And continuing our ascent of it for about 2 miles.  We arrived at the foot of the Grand Rapids.  After breakfast I walked to the head of the rapids, which from the entrance of the river I estimate to be 6 miles, forming a great bend between South & North & bounded by steep cliffs of gravel and limestone  and elevation of about 80 feet.  I read with the mountain Barometer the number of feet which these rapids have from their foot at the point where they commence launching the boats to their head where the boats are again launched the result made it 43 feet.  We found at the head of the rapids Mr. Prudens with the advanced part of the Saskatchawan Brigade and also three boats under Mr. Clouson for the Athabasa Department.  A great number of Indians were encampt here actually engaged in the sturgeon fishing from whom we obtained a very seasonable supply of that article, which forms a very palatable food, and besides obtained an abundant supply of wild fruits. The strawberry, Payer & & what forms a very agreeable repast.  A few nights previous to our arrival here a fatal event took place.  Two Indians while setting in the Fort were killed by a flash of lightning.  The relations craved rum to console them under this heavy dispensation.  Our crews have been employed in transporting the cargoes & boats across the portage.  We had throughout the day fine & pleasant weather. 

Wednesday 2nd.  Very warm and clear weather.  Thermometer at noon 80o.  The position of this place being accurately fixed by Capt Franklin.  I availed myself of the opportunity afforded to ascertain the rate of my chronometer, which as I apprehended I found had altered [hiv] rate very materially, then being an accumulated daily loss of 3 seconds.  A good meridian altitude made the latitude 53: 8: 26 N within a second of that ascertained by Franklin; which is a satisfactory coincidence.  The magnetic casiatin I made 17o east.  Messr Pridons and Coulson, proceeded on their journey at the usual embarking hour.  Our crews from day light were employed transporting the boats & across the portage which is a most labourious operation, having to drag them up a stub bank of 20 feet & then to launch them across the portage a distance of 1800 yards & whose extreme height was determined by my mountain Barometer to be 67 feet. At 3:30 Pm this difficult river being completed we embarked & continued our ascent of the Saskatchawin by hauling & poling against a very strong current, & with our utmost efforts did not advance above a league, at 9:20 PM when we encampt for the night, just below the Red Rock.  Several Indians having accompanied our brigade our encampment this evening presented a grotesque group.

Thursday 3rd.  Commenced fine clear weather.  At 4 AM we embarked and after severe labour for four hours at the poles and hauling line the men being frequently up to their britches in water we arrived at a small Island at the entrance of Cross Lake having come a distance of 3 miles against a succession of rapids and strong current.  Having breakfasted on this Island we again pursued our route across the southern extremity of Cross Lake, in a westly direction for about 5 miles, which brought us to a narrow outlet or channel from Cedar Lake.  which being very rapid occupied us until 3:30 PM in ascending altho only a distance of 6 1/2 miles.  We ascended Cedar lake, in a SWbW direction 12 miles which brought us to the long point, when the weather assuming a bad appearance & a considerable haulage being before us we put in shore in a small bay on the west side of this point at 8 PM & encampt for the night.  We had hardly pitched when we had a heavy thunder storm with much rain & lightning we therefore considered it fortunate that we had not taken the traverse.  Our days distance was 25 miles for from the Red Rock.

Friday 4th.  Strong breezes with rain during the night which detained us in our encampment until 5:20 AM when the wind moderating we embarked & proceeded on our ascent of the Cedar or Bourbon Lake, keeping under the shelter of its northern shores.  At 11 AM the wind shifted to the NW which enabled us to make sail and steer a more direct course. Which brought us to the head of this Lake at 2 PM which I estimate to be 11 leagues1 in a WSW & ENE direction by compass and is indented by some very deep bays & thickly studded with Islands, and is a much larger shirt of water than the maps show it.  We now reentered the Saskatchawan [handing] which by a swampy marsh of the river for 3 leagues.  We crossed the great & little Muddy Lakes & again reentered the Saskatchawan which we ascended for 2 leagues, which brought us to the Pine Encampment which where we put up for the night having come during the day an estimated distance of 59 miles altho but an indifferent encampment it is the only one that this fair country affords for a great distance it being contained  swamps.

August 1826  Saturday 5th.  Commenced fair and clear matter, a sharp northern wind 5:15 AM embarked & made sail up the Saskatchawin by a branch of considerable extent its banks fringed by a thick crop of willows & other low shrubs at the present flooded nine feet above their roots, beyond the banks & extending between the intersection of the various branches of the river in swamps and sheets of water with occasionally in the distant view a few rounded elevation of land bearing a growth of pines which stand conspicuous above the adjoining swamps.  Noon fine clear weather therm 66o at at quarter past noon.  We succeeded in getting our breakfast cooked upon a raft, when we again pursued our route thru a continuation of the same description of scenery, but as we ascend the banks occasionally presents a fringe of poplars & elm, the water being some feet above their roots.  At 9 PM we secured our boats for the night & cooked our suppers on a raft & slept in our boats.  The Heavens presented one of the finest displays of the Aurora Borealis I ever beheld.  The whole heavens was a brilliant blaze caused by the phenomenon. Assuming in quick succession the greatest variety of forms, showing the various tints of the rainbow with many there possessing a richness and beauty quite indescribable.  The quiet point from which they appeared to diverge was in our zenith from there shooting out its beauteous rays to the several points of the horizon & then again contracting themselves to the same point, and so strong was the play of these singular lights that I almost imagined I hear a noise caused by this coruscations3.  Our days distance was 39 miles by estimation.

Sunday 6th.  Commenced fair and clear weather.  AT 3:30 AM we continued our ascent of the River by a narrow channel formed by an island of about 12 miles long, when the main stream assumed its breadth again which having ascended for about 5 miles brought in to the confluence of the Basquian River whose eastern point of entry forms a small plot of dry ground with a fir flats upon it the property of a freeman, & who has cultivated a small spot which produces potatoes.  We found Indian encampt here from whom our crews procured a supply of sturgeon.  Giving articles of wearing apparel in exchange of much greater value than the fish received but a short supply of provision and a ravenous appetite enhanced their value in the estimation of our men.  One of our boats having fallen in the rear it was determined to wait her arrival at this spot.  We therefore encampt at 11 AM having come from the morning situation an estimated distance of 17 miles.  The great quantity of filth collected about the Indian encampment, did not make our situation desirable.

Monday 7th.  Fine clear weather, a breeze north at 11 AM.  The sternmost boat having come up we embarked and continued our ascent of the Saskatchawan, about 2 miles above the Basquian River is another tributary stream falling upon the SW named the Carrot and extending to the west in a chain of Lakes.  The Basquian Hills were seen extending from the West b SW forming a blue ridge in the distant horizon.  Having come about 8 leagues along a swampy fair of county we put up for the night alongside a range of poplars.

Tuesday 8th.  A continuation of fine weather, which may be considered fortunate in our present situation, when the country affords no encampments.  At 3 AM we continued our ascent of the Saskatchawan.  When having come about 8 leagues in a winding direction to the SW we struck out of the main stream into a small channel which led us into a Lake which we proceeded to cross in a west direction for 5 miles which brought us to a chain of swampy channels leading us to the west by which track we cut off a great part of the distance to Cumberland House.  Our days journey was much retarded by one of our boats constantly falling to the rear& the communication being now rather intricate we do not wish to part company.  We were therefore obliged to make frequent stops.  She appears a heavy pulling boat & I suspect is not equally manned.  At 8:30 PM we put up for the night under a clump of willows.  Having come an estimated distance of 56 miles during the day.  The night presented a rich display of the Aurora Borealis.

August 1826 Wednesday 9th.  Fine but clear and warm weather bringing in an abundant supply of moskitos.  At 3 AM we continued our journey & having come about 5 leagues.  We arrived at Cumberland House at 8:30.  Mr. Lath the gentleman in charge of this post having fallen in the rear since leaving the Grand Rapids, the arrangement for the supply of pemmican for our crew can not be made until his arrival, which will detain us here for the day. The estimated distance from Norway House to Cumberland House is by me 392 1/2 miles by the route we followed, & from York Factory 698 miles.  In a direct line from Norway House it is only 152 miles & bears N 85o W true.

My observations place Cumberland House in Latitude 53. 56. 56 N Longitude by Chronometer, with rate ascertained at Grand Rapids 102.11.48 W which is 5 miles to the east of that assigned to it by Capt Franklin, which indicates a further alienation of his rate.  I must therefore adopt the rate shown by my observations at this place.  I am apprehensive the hauling has injured the Chronometer which will in a great measure rend in her useless, as confidence cannot be placed in the result of observations made by her.  Mr. Lath arrived in the evening and also the Athabasca Brigade that had left the Grand Rapids on the morning of the same day the we left there, they had followed a new route, but got entangled among swamps & were obliged to make a portage one a considerable flat of mud, so that they lost by the experiment. 

This post is in very good order, a considerable extent of ground around it is in a high state of cultivation, yielding abundant crops of wheat, barley & potatoes, & a garden affording an excellent supply of byitables for the table.  The soil appears of an excellent quality, being a black loam of considerable depth upon a subsoil of limestone.  The surrounding country is swampy Pine Island on which the Post is situated is low, but bears a good growth of Pines.  I saw few Indians at the Post, these were engaged at the different fishing situations, procuring a winters supply.

Thursday 10th.  Commenced close, gloomy weather with distant thunder.  Our arrangements being completed & having partook of an abundant breakfast with Mr. Leith we resumed our Journey at 11 AM and pursued our route by the Little River to the west of Peon Island in a winding course to the SE for 2 1/2 leagues where we reentered the main branch of Saskatchawan, and continued its as sent this course being particularly windy, some bend turning to the North & south & occasionally to the SE & NW which is within tight points of going round the compass.  At 3 PM had a severe thunderstorm which continued for some hours.  As we ascend the banks of the river become more elevated but are still too muddy to afford an encampment.  The firs along the river are becoming larger; in some instances the poplars have attained a considerable growth.  Having come 25 1/2 miles by estimation in a very winding direction we put up for the night at 8 PM & slept in our boats.

Friday 11th.  Showers occasionally with a strong breeze from the SW which combines with the current against us retards our progress very much, not averaging a greater rate than 2 mils per hour.  As we ascend the banks gradually increase their elevation & are becoming drier.  The firs are more varied, numerous and of a better growth, our track generally has been less winding than yesterday averaging a SW direction. We pass the channels formed by Islands, lying in the bed of the river which appear to owe their origin to drift wood, covered with muddy deposits.  In the evening the wind abated & we had fine clear weather, but myriads of moskitos infesting us.  Having come a distance of 22 miles we encampt at 9 PM.

Saturday 12th.  Fine weather, a breeze from the SW.  At 3:30 AM embarked & continued our ascent of the Saskatchawan in a SW direction, but occassional bend from the North & then again from the SW.  The county in some parts rising to Hills and generally becoming mote interesting being cloathed with firs of a much larger growth, many of the pines and poplars having attained a great height.  The banks continue muddy, with a great quantity of iron oxide oozing thru them, the waters of the river are quite turbid.  As the banks attain height the current appears to gain additional force, the greatest part of our journey today has been made by the track line which did not average a greater distance than 2 1/2 miles per hour.  We met a few Indians in a canoe in the afternoon, who supplied us with moose deer meats.  Having come by estimation a distance of 26 miles, we encampt at 8:30 PM.

August 1826 Sunday 13th.  Hot and sultry weather (with moskitos in great numbers) rendering the tracking very severe labour to our crews.  We embarked at 3:15 AM and perused our route up the Saskatchawan in a very winding direction, between North and South to the west.  The fair of the country is becoming more diversified as we ascend, but the banks continue muddy.  The forest is becoming extensive.  The river is also extending in breadth, but its course is occasionally obstructed by Islands.  We traveled 29 miles, principally by tracking when we encampt at 8:30 PM.

Monday 14th.  Hot and sultry weather, at 4 AM we embarked & commence the labours of the day by tracking along shore averaging about 3 miles per hour.  Noon close Gloomy W Thermometer 72o.  The bank now begins to rise in perpendicular cliffs of a muddy sand to an elevation of from two to three hundred feet in other parts by gradual ascent, forms hills of a great height, richly cloathed with pines and poplars, with a variety of shrubs this varied affording a pleasing landscape, several of the shrubs affording an abundant supply of refreshing fruits to our crews. vis the service berry, wild cherry, pagic, &c &c.  The ridges of the hill are composed generally of a firm yellow land.  Our course has been very winding between North & South to the West.  We came an estimated distance of 30 miles and encampt at 8 PM.

Tuesday 15th.  The weather gloomy with a heavy dew, the moskitos being troublesome.  At 4 AM we proceeded on our journey, the muddy banks of the river, affording a very bad path for our crews on the track line not withstanding they proceed at a very good pace, making about 3 1/2 to 4 mils per hour and as they relieve each other hourly, the crews being divided into two partys there is no intermission in our mode o0f traveling which prevents my taking observations as I could wish as the delay necessary for that purpose would throw me so much in the rear, that I could not readily ( as experience taught me) get up with the boats again, the path along the banks is so muddy that the traveller frequently sinks knee deep & the county not being yet sufficiently clear of forest, the passenger is obliged to keep in the boats, during the whole days travel except during the breakfast hour. Noon hot and sultry weather.  Therm 78o in the shade 96o exposed to the rays of the sun, but the evening was cool and pleasant.  The fair of the country continues to alter its appearance as we ascend, parallel to the course of the river a ridge of Sandy Hills extend with [] and detached elements of considerable elevation, some richly adorned by woods, others presenting a meadow surface & the forests are gradually disappearing.  The immediate banks are a strong [] with occasional breaks of rolled stones.  Through the banks a great quantity of iron oxide is sure oozing from which I would infer that that metal exists in great abundance in this neighborhood.  Our track today has been winding but the average course tending to the SW.  The river continues equally rapid and retains in breadth.  We traveled by estimation a distance of 40 miles, and encampt at 8 PM.  

Wednesday 16th.  Fair weather, with great heat during the day.  Thermometer 64o -84.  At 4 AM we embarked and continued our ascent by our men tracking along shore.  This now occurs tracks of clear country, enabling those inclined to walk, across the points formed by the various bends of the river which being a more direct line than the course of the river.  Renders it easy to keep ahead of the boats, but the great heat, makes it more of a [] than a pleasure, it may therefore be judged, if the more waling is fatiguing how much more must the labour of tracking the boats be so to our crews.  On gaining the summits of the ridge of Hills bounding the river immense plains present themselves extending as far as the eye can see,, which affords at certain periods pasture for numerous herds of buffalo & deer.  At 5 PM we arrived at the forks of the North & South branches of the Saskatchawan, the South branch appears equal to the North in point of rise at this junction, my observation for Latitude place the forks in 53o 12 N; we continued our ascent of the North branch, there is now a very evident diminution in the depth of the river for since coming above the forks we are constantly opposed by rapids formed by shallow ledges or battens of rolled stones extending across the bed of the river, in hauling above one of these rapids Mr. Rowan's boat struck a stone and got so much injured that it was necessary to discharge her for the purpose of repair which made us encampt at 8 PM for the night.  Our track during the day was winding between NW & South a distance of 33 miles.

Thursday 17th.  Very warm and clear weather.  The frequency of the rapids & great strength of current requires an additional force upon our track line, so that the crews cannot form an hourly relief of fresh hands, which obliges them to take frequent rests, so that our progress is very much retarded.  The fair of the country is extensive plains as far as the eye can see, our track today has continued very winding, the bends turning from NW, South & even SE; the distance made 24 miles by estimation.

Friday 18th.  Commenced fair weather.  We embarked at 4 AM & continued our ascent by tracking until 6 AM when having got above the rapids into a comparatively still part of the river resembling a chain of lakes we took advantage of a fair wind & made sail, but a heavy fall of rain at 7 was followed by a calm, Noon it cleared up & we had a good breeze from the east but at 2 PM we had a thunder storm with heavy rain; which continued for an hour, when it again became fine clear weather.  A few leagues brought us again unto rapids, & the river along our track has been richly studded by islands, level & flat bearing a rich growth of poplars & willows principally.   The bounding country continues extensive plains by crossing which in a direct line I am informed it is only two days journey to Carlton House.  The banks of the river occasionally rise & forms perpendicular clay cliffs with flat summits.  The intervening flats are thickly wooded. Our course by today's track has been between NW & South occasionally to the SE.  The distance by estimation 31 1/2 miles.

Saturday 19th.  Commenced heavy rain with the wind NW, at 4:15 embarked & continued our journey.  At 7 AM it cleared up & became fair.  We discovered on an eminence skirted with woods on the left banks of the river a few Indian Lodges and Horses, we put on shore to breakfast, that we might communicate with these Indians, who we found to be a party of Crees, who had been attacked a few days before, by a strong war party of the Blackfeet, & Blood Indians, who had succeeded in killing ten of their nation, & destroying their property.  The however asserted that they had retaliated amply, by killing more than an equal number of their enemys but no reliance can be place on Indian authority in such cases & it is evident they had the worst of it as they were flying out of the reach of Blackfeet, with the [sawfin] of their property.  They say they were taken by surprise & that the on set of their enemys was desperate.  Their apprehensions of another attack is so strong that they have requested that we will cross them & their familys to the opposite bank [] as to insure greater safety.  This request was readily complied with.  These tribes have perpetual war, for a long time the Crees had the advantage I am informed, but the Blackfeet & Blood being now as well supplied with arms and ammunition the scale is rather leaned against them, & instead of gaining ground they are gradually returning to the woody countrys.  The general character of the country continues the same as that passed yesterday.  There was perhaps a greater quantity of wood along the banks, which gave it a richer appearance.  The currant runs strong and Islands & flats frequently occur extending along the bed of the river, with the exception of one bend, our course today had tended to the SW, our days distance not withstanding our having had a fair breeze occasionally is only 24 miles.  We had fair clear weather throughout the day.

August 1826 Sunday 20th.  Very fine clear weather.  We marched at 4 AM.  The country now presents a fair of rich meadow land with [] groves of wood interspersed over its surface giving to the scene a richness & beauty which even rivals the fine lawns & rich pasture lands of a civilized country possessing the advantage in point of extent over most countrys, the plains on the right or south Bank, extending many hundred miles to the south -- affording pasture to myriad of wild animals vis: the buffaloe, or Bison, a great variety of the deer & the number of wild berries produced along the banks of the river affords an ample supply of food, with black bear who abounds in the regions, the wolf preys upon the numerous dead carcasses found over the plains, in consequence of the attacks of animals upon each other, but much men from the hostility of the hunter-- Was this rich fair of country made subservient to the use of civilized man, how much would it enhance its beauty, & calm.  It is now the seat of savage society.  The Indians of the plains looks solely to the chain for his subsistence, and are consequently [] hunters and as they are well supplied with horses they find no difficulty in running down the buffaloe, whose migrations they follow for that purpose which yields them an ample supply of food.  The course of the river was less winding along our days track.  But its channel was very much obstructed by mud banks & flats.  Having come a distance of 6 leagues, we arrived at Carlton House at 3:15 PM.  This post is pleasantly situated & in a very good state of defense against Indian attack, which is very necessary in this quarter as the neighboring Indians are warlike & formidable-- I make the distance by estimation by the course of the river, from Cumberland House 304 miles tho in a direct line it is only 163 & bearing S 66oW True.  The travelling distance from York Factory is by estimation 1002 miles.

August 1826 Monday 21st.  Fair & extremely warm weather.  The transfer of Mr. [] Stewart from this post to the Lesser Slave Lake detains the brigade until he completes the necessary arrangements with his successor Mr. Purdue.  I employed myself in taking a set of observations which makes the latitude 52_51 N.  The chronometer by the Grand Rapid rate makes the Longitude 10g-12-42 & by the Cumberland House rate 106_26_37 W which is within 56 seconds of the long assigned to it by Capt Franklin, from which I might infer that he chronometer has reduced her daily loss since leaving Cumberland, tho I am inclined to think the contrary not withstanding the near coincidence of the longd as given by the Grad Rapid rate.  I am therefore disposed to give the preference to the Longd 106_20_10N.  Carlton House is situated about 1/4 mile within the South bank of the Saskatchawan; a flat surface of country extending for rather more than that distance to a bank with rather steep ascent, but moderate elevation, forming a ridge of hills running parallel to the course of the river.  On gaining the summit of which immense plains present themselves [] to the utmost range of human vision, on the flat ground immediately in the nigh borders of the Fort.  A considerable track of land is now cultivated & produces very good returns of wheat, barley, potatoes, & vegetables in considerable perfection.  The surrounding country produces a great quantity of the Hazle nut, the Poyer, a very rich berry, the choke cherry & other casulers of new fruit.  The tillage of land was entirely new to the Indians who looked upon it with great curiosity in it first introduction. but have shown no disposition to follow the example, which would be a great step towards their civilization.  We found a band of Horses at this post that had been sent from Edmonton, to wait the arrival of our brigade & who fortunately escaped their thieving depredations of the Indians, who seldom fail to availing themselves of any opportunity that offers in that way.  The Evening was hot & sultry with vast numbers of muskitos. 

[Presentation of original Journal changes.  The author goes to a two page table format giving date, courses, distance, remarks on the river, then Daily Remarks on the facing page.]

August 1826 Tuesday 22nd

Courses: SW Iroquois Point is on the North bank of the river. 

Distance 6 miles. 

Accompanying remarks upon the course of the river & & .  On leaving Carlton House, we proceeded to Iroquois Point about 6 miles above that place the course of the river is much obstructed by land banks in this part of it.  The variation of the compass may be adopted as 20o Easterly.

Daily Remarks &.  As this track from this Point has been less frequented than that below her I have adopted a now form of Journal, so as to enable me to give a more copious detail of our Journey.  I may here remark that my mode of computing distances is by time.  I observe the average rate of hauling in a given time according to the various circumstances & mode of hauling which I notice at stated periods, by which means I think I make a close approximation to the truth.  The courses are taken by a boat compass & given [] by compass; when thay are corrected for variation.  I state it.

The weather commenced heavy thunder storms with a very great fall of rain & strong gusts of wind, throwing down our tents & making us spend a very uncomfortable night - but it became fine during the day.  As this Post cannot furnish a supply of provisions to our brigade it will be necessary to send our Hunter on before us to endeavor to kill buffaloe which are said to be in great abundance upon the banks of the river a short distance above here.  Our business being brought to a close we embarked at 6:45 PM & proceeded to an encampment at Iroquois Point.

Wednesday 23rd.  4:45 AM Embarked. between South & SW 10 Miles South 19 miles.  Days distance 29 miles.  Along our Days track mud banks frequently seen in the bed of the river which makes the channel very [inbricade].  The immediate banks are muddy, but the [] on gaining the summit of a ridge or bank of gentle ascent is a vast surface of Plains.

Commences fine clear weather.  We had a heavy dew during the night.  At 4:45 AM we continued our ascent of the Saskatchawan, alternately tracking & rowing.  At 9 we landed to breakfast, our horse party joining us but after breakfast they proceeded to the hunting ground.  Messr Rowan & MacMillan accompanying the hunters.  As we ascend deer are occasionally seen grazing along the bounding plains.  Mr. Barnstone succeeded in killing on this afternoon, which afforded us a venison supper.  These deer are a small kind resembling the fallow deer - and are called chevrivil by the Canadians.  We had a heavy fall of rain in the evening, which obliged us to encamp at 7:30 PM so as to secure the canyons.

Thursday 24th.  5:30 AM Embarked.  South 9 miles.  We entered the elbow turns WbyN 3 miles; SW 2 miles; South 2 1/2 miles gradually turned to the SW & continued between that & NW 12 miles; days distance 28 1/2 miles.

Having run to the South about 3 leagues we entered the Elbow which forms a [] bend from S to the North of that, & bank again to the South when the river holds its course from the NW from the Eagle Hill Creek when falling on from the South at the head of the Elbow.  We have the Eagle Hills in the distance been extending from SSE to [].  Immediately along the river is undulating Hills of little elevation.  There sloping surface richly interspersed by clumps of firs & shrubs from their summits their extensive plains commence.

We had a continuance of heavy rain during the night but cleared up at 5:30 AM when we pursued our journey favoured by a fair breeze from the NW until entering the Elbow.  Having made the round of the Elbow & nearly opposite the Eagle Hill Creek, we fell in with our hunting party with a very seasonable and abundant supply of buffaloe meat.  Consisting of six of these animals, which were equally distributed to our crews.  Being anxious to witness the hunting of the Buffaloe, I accompanied the hunting party, and mounting our horses we struck into the plains in pursuit of that object.  We had not advanced far when a bull afforded the hunter an opportunity of displaying his talents but as he was not thought worthy of a chase upon horse he was approached by the hunters coursing along the ground & when within distance he fired & mortally wounded the animal but it did not prevent his retreating to a patch of wood in the neighborhood, where we followed him & before is was finally dispatched he received six balls through his body.  To a stranger the fierce appearance of this animal is calculated to excite some apprehension from a too close approach which is often attended with danger as when only partially wounded, they frequently become furious & will attack the hunter, if not upon his guard this animal flesh not being deemed food, we left hi & proceeded in search of the band of cows, when we were soon gratified by a sight of immense herds extending along the plains as far as you saw & besides these there were also large herds of deer.  & here & there you saw flocks of wolves prowling about for prey- you also see the Eagle looming over the plains, ready to pounce upon his prey - our hunter mounted one of the [] horses & went in pursuit of a herd of animals also, but adopted a different method, They approached them with great caution, by creeping along the ground until in the didst of them, when they commence their attack & frequently succeed in killing two or three before the animals make their escape.  This is by no means so amusing a mode of hunting as by horse,  tho I believe equally destructive to the animals.  Our hunters killed four buffaloe cows during the evening.  We took up our abode for the night render the shelter of a few willows which to a stranger appears rather an uncomfortable nights residence.

August 1826 Friday 25th.  4 AM embarked between West & NW 9 miles; 14 miles; day distance 23 miles.

The Eagle Hills continue in view on our left.  They extend in a North & south direction intersecting the country between the North & South branches of the Saskatchawan.  In the afternoon we passed a small [] stream on our left.

The river has become very shallow in some places hardly affording a channel for our boats & obliging us to follow a very devious course thru three channels.  The banks have become very interesting being finely ornamented by groves or plots of natural wood, giving them the appearance of a gentlemans lawn which is made more striking by the vast herds of cattle, seen grazing along them.  Our distance was mad by hauling & rowing alternately.

Daily remarks.  Rain during the night.  Our party renewed their hunting at Day light but owing to a high wind which is not favorable for that purpose they only succeeded in killing one cow with which & the four killed the previous evening we proceeded to the banks of the river to await the arrival of our boats - who joined us at 8:30 AM.  After breakfast the hunting party returned to the plains; but I rejoined my boat, as being more favourable to my observations upon the course of the river.  Mr. Stewart and some other gentlemen went upon a pedestrian excursion on the South bank of the river, and succeeded in killing a few animals, but not being furnished with horse to transport the meat they were obliged to leave it behind to be devoured by the ravenous animals of the plains.  Our hunters were very successful today, having killed nine cows & to afford hem an opportunity of  joining us with the meat.  We encampt at 6 PM in a very pleasant situation.  The weather throughout the day was cool and pleasant.  The thermometer at noon 60o.

Saturday 26th 5 AM embarked.  The course winding between NW & WSW 22 miles.  Days distance 22 miles.

The bed of the river continues to have numerous shoals, and Islands occasionally occur of a low & flat character being [] with willows & where these are situated the river expands most.  The bends generally tend to the NW.  The Eagle Hills have approached nearer the banks of the river.  The immediate banks are deep alluvial soil, the substratum having frequently a saline crust on its [] surface.  in some places a bed of clay occurs which appears to be strongly impregnated with Iron ore its outer surface by the action of this [] forms itself into small cubical masses & becomes hard.

Our crews were hauling and towing alternately during our march.

 Commence fine clear weather.  After breakfast I walked across a pint for a few miles, formed by a bend of the river.  During my excursion I saw immense herds of buffaloe & a great number of wolves.  I passed a considerable sheet of water which on tasting I found quite brackish its surface was covered by myriad of ducks, bustards & swans & I also observed a few muskrat.  On passing between live clumps of wood I came in contact with a few bulls & almost succeeded in killing one my ball having pierced his body on first receiving the shot he made a great leap & then seemed as if going to fall, but to my astonishment he again took to his heels in part it is far more difficult to kill one of these animals than a person would suppose for unless you pierce him in the heart or brain you seldom bring down the animal.  In the evening our hunters brought us an additional supply of fine buffaloe.  It is pleasing & amusing to see our encampment, on first view you might suppose from the immense quantity of meat seen roasting at the different fires that some special feast called for there preparations as you would suppose it impossible that our men could devour so much at a meal but on seeing a single man very deliberately attaching six parcels of meat for his supplies you are soon conscious of the real cause.

Sunday 27th.  4:30 AM embarked between West & NW 5 miles; passed the junction of the Battle river in latitude by my observation 52o 42 N West to NW 3 miles; West with [] bends to the North 7 miles; days distance 15 miles.  At 7 AM we passed the junction of the Battle river which I make in latitude 52o 42 N.  This river washes the Northern termination of the Eagle Hills on arriving above there the plain extend equally on both sides of the river.

Our encampment which is 10 miles above the junction of the battle river by estimation is by my observation in Latitude 52o 46. 55 N longitude by chronometer 108.13.30 that is.

Daily Remarks.  A heavy dew during the night but fair clear weather.  The nights as well as the morning and evenings are now become very cool & chilly which has had the happy effect of driving away the moskitos, one of the greatest pests the traveller has to contend with.  Altho Sunday our hunters proceeded to their occupations as usual & soon killed seven buffaloe.  The quantity of meat already on hand with the additon of this supply suggested the necessity of preserving a quantity of it according to the Indian mode.  vis: smoking it over fires.  We therefore encampt at 2 PM for that purpose.  Was salt & other necessarys on the spot.  The animals are so abundant that any quantity of meat might be cured and that of an excellent quality, for the beef of these animals appears to me as good as our English beef.  At present we rely solely upon the Indians for our supplys of provisions, and are consequently too much at their mercy, as design or negligence on their parts, might cut off our supplys & those frequent wars in which they are engaged makes them often loose there best opportunity for curing meat.  We had great heat during the day.  Therm at noon 72o.

Monday 28th.  8:30 embarked.  Between North & NW 6 miles N by NW 2 miles brought us to the junction of the Jack River falling in from the right.  W by N to NW 8 miles brought us to the junction of the Turtle River on or right.  2 miles Days distance 18 miles.

The general appearance of the country continues the same, [] that it is becoming [] more wooded, above the Turtle River a strip of Pines occurs, which between here & Carlton have quite disappeared along the banks of the river & the fair of the country generally.  Poplar Willows & Maple being the fundamental woods - there are numerous Islands in this part of the River.  The current appears to gain additional [] as we ascend.  We passed two tributary streams the first the Jack or Pike River is Lat 52.53.  The second, the Turtle River Lat 52.57 N a little below Turtle River & on the opposite bank there was formerly an establishment. 

We had rain during the night, but the morning fine & clear weather.  Having cured a considerable quantity of meat, we embarked at 8 AM.  Our Horse party striking off across the country.

The fair of the country is becoming more woody as we ascend & the pines have again appeared from Carlton where they had disappeared.  The woods being composed of poplars, maples & willows with a great variety of shrubs vis: wild cherry [pembina] berry Poyin - dog wood berry & & After passing the junction of the Jack & Turtle Rivers the bed of the river extends more & has numerous Islands placed along it which are richly wooded with poplar & willows & in indicated the residence of bears.  We saw a grizzle bear on the banks of the river today but he made his escape before Mr. Stewart could approach him.  Our hunters brought in a further supply of three more buffaloe this evening.  We had warm weather during the day.

August 1826 Tuesday 29th.  Course 5:15 Am Embarked  NW to West 6 miles Lat by All 53.6 N Long by che 108.21 W NW 15 miles Days distance 21 miles.

The course of the river has been more direct today [] the NW.  The current gains strength as we ascend.  There are numerous Islands which form a number of channels, & [] flats or mud banks.  A means of a set of distance & & made the Long 108.40.44 at the dame time that the long is entered in the course column.  We observed a great appearance of beaver along the banks on our days track.  Our crews were tracking & rowing alternately.

We had a thick fog in the morning which detained us in our encampment until 5:15 Am.  On the fogs clearing away we had great heat.  Thermometer at noon 78 in the shade.  94 exposed to the rays of the sun, which was followed by a severe thunder storm and heavy rain.  The foliage being refreshed by the rain added much to the beauty of the surrounding scenery.  The majestic & []ruffled surface of the river, rolling by its various channels formed by clusters of richly wooded Islands, with the extensive bark ground presenting here & there detailed herds of wild animals & the fair of the country interceded by ornament are, clusters or copars of this, with extensive meadow lands extending from the gentle sloping banks of the river, added to the soft tint of the evening presented a landscape that might certainly [] in richness with those of highly cultivated countrys.  How valuable would such a country be in the civilized world.  We encampt at 7:30 PM.

Wednesday 30th.  4:15 AM Emb  NW to WNW 8 miles passed a small river on our right.  1 mile  Winding between NWbyN & W by S 10 miles.  NW 3 miles  Days distance 22 miles.

We followed some great bends on our days track, one from NW by N gradually round to W by S.  The Islands have become less numerous but the flats equally so.  The woods are becoming more extensive.  At noon we passed a short range of Hills of moderate elevation wither the North bank.  some distance.  Called the Horse Mountains.

We had a heavy dew thru the night with a great chill in the air but fine warm W during the day.  Our hunters having already supplied us with more meat than is likely to keep, they no longer destroy animals, which is quite proper as it is cruelty to kill animals that you do not require.  One of our boats, struck a stone in tracking along shore, which was hid, from the turbid collour of the water, she was so much injured that she was immediately on shore, but not withstanding their exertions to unload her as quick as possible, her cargo got wet & some powder discharged in consequence of this accident we encampt at 6:15 PM.

Thursday 31st.  4:15 Embarked.  NW 2 miles SW 10 miles Latitude by G mered a[] 53.22.30 N winding to the NW then a bend to the SW from that to North & then NW 15 miles.  Days distance 27 miles.

The course of the river has been particularly winding during the days track.  between North & SW.  The country along the North shore has been more rugged and woody, in consequence of its being bounded by a range of hills.  The Stag or Red Deer Hills - but in coming above this range the country resumes its level appearance.  The buffaloe are now seen but thinly scattered over the country as if the Stag Hills formed their boundary.  Their southern termination is in [].

Thick fog in the morning but cleared up on sun rise, at 9:125 landed to breakfast & continued on shore until 2 PM drying the cargo of the boat which got injured last night.  It being no longer necessary for the horses to follow the circuitous route of the boats, they were dispatched for Edmonton, their place of destination, Messr Rowan, McMillan, McDougan & Bernie accompanying them, & by Crossing the plains, they expect to get to Edmonton in four days.  They follow the track south of the Saskatchawan.  We assisted in crossing the horses & party.  The former having swam the river when we continued our ascent of the river until 8 PM.  We then encampt on the S bank.  [] we decided since leaving Carlton.


1.  33 miles. 2
3.  Flashes of light.